Kreoss has been shot, slammed, spelled, or otherwise smacked down far too many times while under my control. Small wonder that I’ve been slavering for the Devout ever since I got my copy of Escalation. Now that it’s finally out, I can get to the business of painting it up and putting it in harm’s way.
As always, the first thing I do is make sure all the parts are present.
- Shoulder pads
- Right and left arms
- Loincloth thingy
- Right leg
- Medium base
- Stat card
Everything was cast reasonably well. I filed down the mould lines, washed the bits with Simple Green, and started assembly.
I wanted to do the Devout in a vigilant guarding pose rather than the running pose of the studio model. Because of the way the right leg is cast, this pose required putting his foot up on a rock. I happen to have a large bag of rocks for basing, so finding an appropriate one was pretty easy. I then pinned the right leg in the appropriate position. Here’s the test fit:
I put the rock in next. I marked its position on the outside of the base with white paint so I could put it back without the Devout present.
Since I had more time with this guy than I did with Magnus, I used my regular concrete patch basing method. Man do I love this stuff. Ready Mixed Concrete Patch, a mere $4.99 at my local Ace Hardware store. It’s a stinky, grainy grey paste that most people use to repair sidewalks. When properly applied, it makes marvelous in-scale dirt.
I smear it on roughly with a coffee-stirring stick (I drink a lot of coffee, so I have these around in quantity). I then use the side of the stick to smooth the top—just scrape from one end of the base to the other. WARMACHINE bases are recessed, which makes leveling very simple.
Concrete patch is highly adhesive when dry. You can just stick stuff in it and let it sit overnight. Presto, no superglue required. Next step is to stick rocks and the model itself into the base and go to bed.
From here all I had to do is pin the arms in. I left the shield off to make painting easier. In retrospect, I wish I’d left the halberd off too. It’s so long and pokey that it was constantly in the way during painting. I did sink all my pins first (shoulder and wrist) so I wouldn’t have to do any drilling after I’d painted the model. The shoulders are big enough to use the “X” method of pin-marking, but I had to use the “paint-spot” method from my Magnus article on the wrists.
Like most models, I painted the Devout from the inside out. Start with the spots around the waist area that are tough to get to with a brush and work outward. If there’s a part that’s hard to get to from one side and easy to get to from another—an arm, for example—it’s best to paint the whole thing at once for consistency.
I painted in the remaining red-orange next. Most of the carapace is this color, so by doing it all at once I established the major light and shadow areas on the model. The dark brown base is Adikolor Leather with a spot of black and some red ink mixed in. The red-orange highlight is Vallejo Model Color Cavalry Brown.
The ivory trim went on next. The base color is Adikolor Battle Dust, with black added for shadow and white added for highlights. Note that I am neatening up the edges, rivets etc. with thinned black paint after every color step.
I wish I could give you an orderly sequence for painting the rest of the model…but sadly, I can’t. There are metal bits, halberd bits, and the base itself to paint. I jumped around quite a bit: painting one area while another area dried, going back to the first area, jumping to a third, and so on until the model was done. The metal areas were based with Adikolor Rust and highlighted with Adikolor Gold. The base was painted with GW Bestial Brown, then drybrushed with consecutive layers of Graveyard Earth, Desert Yellow, and Bleached Bone (all GW). The bling on his shield is Adikolor Beryl and Adikolor Amazon Green. A final shot of Dullcote, and he’s ready to rock. Er, guard. Whatever.
Until next time -