It’s been noted that the Menoth Wracks are difficult models to deal with in terms of assembling the chains. At first glance, it appears that it is nigh impossible to create a lasting join between the chain of the weights and join to the Wrack. This tutorial offers a blow by blow account of my attempts to reconcile this perceived problem.
- Sculpting Tool (although a Hobby Knife will work in a pinch
- Kneadatite (Green Stuff)
It’s assumed that you have prepped your mini (cleaned of flash, filed mold lines, etc) and are now ready to assemble before priming. The pieces we’ll be working with in this tutorial are displayed in the following image:
Test fitting one of the chain ends to the main body of the model reveals the problem. The points of contact between the pieces is very small, and it’s not practical to bend and manipulate the ‘opened’ piece of chain to wrap around the closed piece for a better fit. I would be worried if these pieces were just superglued together, as their isn’t enough surface area to create a good solid bond. I’ve come to discover that, when in doubt, turn to the GreenStuff!
You’ll only need a very small amount of GreenStuff. I cut off a 1/8″ strip of Kneadatite, and rolled together until adequately mixed. This should provide you with enough GreenStuff to assemble the chain of 6 Wracks to the main body (12 points of contact).
For the next step, I utilized a sculpting tool to manipulate the GreenStuff, but any Hobby Knife will suffice as well. Be sure to wet the tool, or the GreenStuff will stick to the tool itself. I’d let the GreenStuff cure for about 15 minutes before starting to get to work. When first mixed, it’s too ‘mushy’ to be useful. It must harden a wee bit in order to temporary hold the chain in place. Roll out the GreenStuff into a thin line, and cut a small piece off to work with.
Smoosh (nice technical term, eh?) the piece of GreenStuff into the open chain link. Don’t worry too much about looks at this point in time. We’ll cut and sand later on. You should have a nice little ball at the end of your chain, which will serve as the ‘temporary’ join to the Wrack.
It’s highly advisable to mount the chains to your Wrack while it is standing upright. This will allow gravity to take over, and the chains will hang in a more natural position. Either base your model first, or temporarily affix it to the base with some Poster Tack. After affixing the chain end to the main body, apply a small bit of superglue to the GreenStuff and the surrounding metal contact points. The superglue will quasi-instantly cure the GreenStuff and create a rather strong bond. If you slop on too much superglue, have a paper towel handy to soak up the excess. This bond will prevent the chain from falling off while the GreenStuff truly cures. I suggest waiting 24 hours before trimming and sanding the GreenStuff.
You can see from the picture on the left, the join is pretty messy at this point in time. Working with the combination of GreenStuff and superglue doesn’t really allow for ‘fine detail work’, at least that’s been my experience! After 24 hours, the join is strong enough to work on. I have cleaned up the join by slicing and sanding down (very carefully) the excess GreenStuff and superglue. At this point in time, if you are truly concerned with detail work, you could apply and smooth out another thin layer of GreenStuff to the chains.
Pain and Suffering
Now that the Wrack is almost finished, you’re one step closer to fielding this implement of pain and suffering on the fields of battle!